FETA - The Odyssey of a Noble Cheese

Nearly 3,000 years ago in his epic poem The Odyssey, Homer described how the one-eyed shepherd giant Polyphemus made cheese in his mountain cave. The process Homer described is remarkably similar to that used in the manufacture of feta cheese, even today.

Just as the Parthenon is a symbol of Greek architecture and the rugged Greek coastline characterizes its landscape, feta cheese has become an iconic symbol of Greek cooking, a much-loved cuisine distinguished by sun-kissed Mediterranean flavours and hearty, filling dishes.

A soft, slightly crumbly, rindless white cheese, feta was originally made from sheep or goat’s milk and still is today in its home country. In many other parts of the world, including North America, feta made from pasteurized cow’s milk has become a favourite of cooks and cheese lovers

While feta dates back thousands of years, it is only in the past century that it emerged into prominence on the world culinary stage. This ‘coming-out’ was made possible by the use of brine (heavily salted water) as a preservative, which not only enabled feta to be safely stored for months, but also added a tangy, salty flavour. Brine preservation also led to feta being frequently referred to as a ‘pickled cheese.’

Feta takes its name from the Greek word for slice, which refers to the practice of cutting larger curds into square cakes. Classified as a soft cheese, feta is full of small, uneven holes, which allow it to be easily crumbled. Rich, creamy and tangy, feta has its own distinctive flavour, but its porous nature is perfect for absorbing complementary flavours.

Many North Americans first met feta cheese through the now ubiquitous Greek salad that has earned wide popularity thanks to the fresh, tangy flavours of tomato, onion, cucumber, olives, oregano, olive oil and lemon juice. But the versatility of feta is one of its hallmarks, and Greek salad is only the beginning.

Feta is delicious on its own, accompanied by a bowl of olives, a glass of wine and, ideally, a sea view. Its flavour and texture marries beautifully with eggs, in quiches, omelettes or frittatas. It adds zest and flavour to pasta and rice dishes. Feta is a favourite ingredient in dips and sauces, as it adds viscosity as well as flavour.

Feta melts nicely, so it makes a fine, flavourful topping for pizza, soups, stews, casseroles or baked potatoes. The distinctive flavour of feta works well with seafood and chicken, especially as a stuffing in baked dishes. Feta and spinach are a combination fit for the Gods, Greek or otherwise, best exemplified by the dish spanakopita, in which feta and spinach are enrobed in layers of buttery filo pastry.

The popularity of feta has encouraged manufacturers to offer it in a wide variety of forms. It can be purchased packaged in brine, where it will store well for months in the refrigerator. For quicker use, convenient squares are readily available. Crumbled feta makes for ease of use as a pizza or casserole topping, while ‘light’ feta appeals to the calorie conscious. An innovative option is feta flavoured with complementary ingredients, such as basil and tomatoes or olives and oregano making a perfect quick appetizer.

It may have taken thousands of years, but the noble feta has earned pride of place not just at the Greek table, but at tables around the globe. The enjoyment of fine flavours and food is an odyssey in itself and feta is a highly recommended port of call.